Is ‘Made in the USA’ the next ‘Eco-conscious’?
Fashion industry seeing an increase in brands choosing to keep production stateside
By Alexis Lehtonen
March 21, 2012: It was not long ago that “environmentally friendly” and “socially responsible” were the buzz words of the fashion industry. What started out as a quaint, feel good movement has over time become a standard of sorts for many apparel and accessory brands. Today, it seems as though to set oneself apart from the volume of eco-savvy brands, it all about tapping local/regional resources and producing goods in the U.S. This is not to say that companies are moving away from being environmentally mindful and good social stewards, but merely that another ‘badge of honor’ has arrived on the fashion scene.
One can speculate about why the industry is seeing an increase in domestic production; is it consequence of our stumbling economy? Could it be that it’s actually an extension of ‘eco-conscious’ as many claim it’s more environmentally sound to produce in America than outsource? Most would agree that was a confluence of both that creating a ripe opportunity to bring more business back home.
To gain a better insight about this trend and how it is impacting the retail business, FashionEdits decided to interview women’s apparel lines – Fluxus and Amour Vert – and accessories labels Ax + Apple and Erica Weiner.
Fluxus has been making artfully inspired apparel in Southern California since 2007. With an avant-garde take on mens and womens basics (especially tee shirts and scarves), Fluxus has cultivated a strong Hollywood following in a few short years.
San Francisco based newcomer Amour Vert is an eco-apparel fashion house committed to helping the local economy and transforming the expectation that being eco doesn’t mean ‘looking eco’ and being ‘priced eco.’
Ax + Apple creates vintage-inspired accessories for boutiques around the world from their shop in Austin, Texas. What started out as a burgeoning craft in 2010 has quickly turned into a successful collection of skillfully constructed yesteryear pieces with a nod to modern aesthetics.
Erica Weiner’s playfully innovative jewelry has always been designed with a sense of history and a vintage flair. Not only has her entire collection always been made in NYC, she also takes better care of her employees than most companies in the U.S.
Why it is important for your brand to be U.S. made?
Fluxus: It’s simply easier to produce everything under one roof rather than having to manage it from all over the world. That said, it’s important for Fluxus to support our domestic economy, specifically with regards to keeping jobs and businesses in California. As a result we are also able to control the quality of our product better.
Amour Vert: As an eco-fashion line, it is important for Amour Vert to be USA made because it reduces the carbon footprint of their products and strengthens the local economy.
Ax+Apple: We started small so it made sense to do everything in house and by hand. As the demand grew, we changed some of our methods for creation. For example, instead of using rare and vintage findings, we started creating original designs, which were then casted and could be reproduced at larger quantities. We found wonderful people who could do that for us here in the states. They are small companies and the working relationships are so wonderful; which is another factor in keeping things here, the people and ease of communication. We like to be a part of the process all the way through. Once you send something out for manufacturing, it’s gone from you in a way. If it’s here in the U.S., we can still manage it.
Erica Weiner: The jewelry has always been made in the USA, NYC in fact. It began because I had no money to have anyone but myself and my friends make it in any kind of commercial space, so it was just me, working at my kitchen table. Things didn’t go much farther than that. I also had this concept that having things made in India, China, or anywhere else overseas was sort of an evil-empire thing to do. We were always so busy making and selling jewelry that there was no time to do a big overseas outsourcing thing. So a combination of trying to keep it in-house, under my control, poverty, and ignorance on my part is why the brand’s always been made in the USA.
What are the largest obstacles of making products in the U.S.?
Fluxus: Limited resources.
Amour Vert: An underdeveloped manufacturing sector and high costs.
Ax+Apple: Cost. It would be undoubtedly cheaper to manufacture overseas. You’re paying a higher price to keep things in the U.S., but getting better quality in the long run.
Erica Weiner: Payroll. All of our employees are fairly paid, with fully paid health insurance and other great perks. The cost of payroll taxes HIGH!
In your opinion, why are we seeing an increased number of ‘Made in the USA’ brands?
Fluxus: Efficiency. Brands need to be able to react to trends and flip their product and make edits while in production so that they can respond to things as they happen.
Amour Vert: U.S. manufactured products have become synonymous with quality. For over a century, the United States was the world’s largest manufacturer and there is a sense of trying to reclaim that position by bringing back the core of what America was built on. Understanding where the products we use come from and what it means to make these products has created a void.
Ax+Apple: In the 90’s and early 2000’s, the outsourcing of jobs had such an impact on our economy and a lasting effect on Americans that the result was a subconscious one… to bring it back.
Erica Weiner: I think sometimes it’s a branding tool. I think products ACTUALLY made in the USA have to be more expensive and are therefore going to be products for a more luxury market. I don’t believe people in most of America will pay double for a product ‘Made in the USA’ when they can get nearly the same product at Wal-Mart for cheaper.
Do you believe consumers are driving this trend and will it last?
Fluxus: That’s both a yes and no answer. Yes, because they are conscious about the current state of our economy and job market, so anything that people can do to keep business more local and support each other is often desirable. We are all part of a growing global awareness. However, the market can also dictate current price points that may turn some businesses away. With regards to whether it will last, yes, probably, but will the work be brought back to the U.S. 100%, most likely not.
Amour Vert: At the end of the day it is in the hands of the consumer, but it is equally up to manufactures to innovate and create to keep American manufacturing alive.
Ax+Apple: I think it’s a healthy combination of the consumer and the company producing the goods. The producers choose how hard they want to push the “Made in the USA” decision by asking, ‘how important is that choice in the branding of the product?’ And then yes, it’s ultimately up to the consumer and the factors used when deciding where/how/and who to buy from.
Erica Weiner: In wealthy areas, locally-made products, much like local produce, will continue to be popular among people with expendable incomes. Outside the metro areas, probably not.
Are you incorporating ‘Made in the USA’ into your marketing/branding efforts?
Fluxus: Yes, our marketing collateral, press pitches and brand story all highlight that we are a local company that produces and manufactures locally as well.
Amour Vert: We proudly display a ‘Made in US’ logo on various hand tags and packaging materials.
Ax+Apple: We say it loud and proud in our website bio. We are noticing how frequently we get asked where our products are made. People want to know. It would be wrong not to mention that some elements used in our designs do come from other parts of the world. We spend a lot of time sourcing our findings, but it all comes together here in our Austin, TX studio.
Erica Weiner: Quietly, yes.
What are your thoughts about the statement ‘Made in the USA’ is the new ‘environmentally responsible’?
Fluxus: As previously mentioned, we are all part of a growing global consciousness to support our local communities. That said, it’s good to see this as a growing trend. However, it may be more than just being environmentally responsibility. There could be other hard reasons rather than just the saying “Made in the USA.”
Amour Vert: It’s up to brands like ours to keep statements like this true; to strive to use organic fabrics and work with domestic manufacturers and to push the industry toward the standardization of eco practices.
Ax+Apple: Eco-friendly, green, farm to table, locally grown, buy local, eat local, made in the USA, etc. It’s all one in the same. It’s a movement that has been happening for a while. It is as equally environmental as it is economical. It is a choice people are making more and more about how they want to live their lives.
Erica Weiner: That it’s quite true. There is a buzzword quality about it now.
How can this trend impact the independent boutique business?
Fluxus: This is great for specialized products in local businesses. It’s important to carve out a certain niche for your business and specialize in that space. Boutiques need a niche in order to compete with huge corporations like H&M that cover a wide range of products and goods.
Amour Vert: This is an advantage for independent boutiques because it allows them to offer exclusive and unique lines that major retailers do not carry.
Ax+Apple: I would imagine it’s doing great things. The support of local business is heavily on the rise. We’ve been extremely lucky and super appreciative of the support we’ve gotten from said independent boutiques. They make up a large portion of our business. If they’re buying… then we’re doing something right!
Erica Weiner: Not sure, I’m on the design end.
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